![]() ![]() ![]() Then, I had to trim the expansion rails to remove the area where the pins were and widen the kerf enough to fit the 1/8" bearing plates and deep enough to snug up the old and new rails. Rather than repeat the same mistakes, I headed over to Lowes and picked up some Simpson strong ties (four 3" x 3" Bearing plates, and four 3" x 7" tie plates) I removed the hook portion from the old bed rails by drilling from the outside with a small diameter bit and forcing the retaining pins out. Full Mattress 54" x 75" Queen Mattress 60" x 80" Update: Well, it almost worked.The pins I was hoping would work in broke sending the bed into a slanted position. It has really turned out to be a great addition. We can charge our phones, store books, glasses, etc. It sits about 4" below the mattress and allows you to lay your arm under your pillow without it falling asleep. ![]() The additional area at the head of the bed was made into a curved shelf resting on triangular plywood posts, complete with an electrical outlet. The finished dimensions of the opening are 60-1/2" (a little wider than it should be, 3/4" plywood was used under the box spring) x 90" (including the curve on the headboard). The extension of the frame was a bit more difficult because the headboard was designed to curve around the mattress. The rails use the same bed hook design as the original. I am hoping that as we use the bed, it will loosen the pin holes a bit to mate up the two pieces better. As you can see if the photos, the original rails sit a little proud of the extensions. The blanks were make up of face-glued Yellow Pine that was shaped with a bandsaw and belt sander. After a couple attempts, I came up with this result. I had the idea to extend the frame (width and length) to accommodate the mattress we used. We had an "antique" bed frame that was setup for a Full sized mattress instead of the Queen each of us had. ![]()
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